Preprint
Sep 2026
Finite-source filtering and Doppler modulation of infragravity waves generated by breakpoint forcing
Infragravity waves generated in the surf zone contribute substantially to nearshore water-level variability, with group-scale variations in wave breaking generating free long waves through breakpoint forcing. Existing interpretations of this mechanism rely largely on an idealised moving-breakpoint picture in which brea...
Hedi Midouni, S. Contardo, J. Monbaliu et al.
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