Strategies for integrating natural dye resources into wool dyeing under technical feasibility and regional sustainability criteria
Abstract
Growing environmental concerns associated with conventional synthetic dyeing have renewed interest in botanical dyes as sustainable alternatives for textile coloration. Although numerous studies have investigated individual dye plants, extraction techniques, and mordanting systems, few have integrated pigment chemistry, technical feasibility, regional sustainability, and industrial deployment within a unified evaluation framework. This review critically examines four representative plant-based natural dyes: saffron ( Crocus sativus ), henna ( Lawsonia inermis ), turmeric ( Curcuma longa ), and Hibiscus rosa-sinensis for sustainable wool dyeing. A structured narrative synthesis of 179 peer-reviewed publications (2000–2026) was conducted to evaluate pigment chemistry, wool–dye interactions, extraction technologies, mordant systems, color strength, fastness, reproducibility, scalability, and sustainability. The analysis demonstrates that dye performance depends on the interplay between chromophore chemistry, fiber affinity, mordant coordination, and process optimization rather than botanical origin alone. Among the four dye systems, turmeric and henna show the greatest potential for industrial application owing to their favorable combination of color performance, functional properties, reproducibility, and scalability, whereas saffron is constrained by limited pigment availability and high production costs, and Hibiscus rosa-sinensis by insufficient standardization of performance evaluation. Building on these findings, a conceptual three-stage decision-support framework integrating technical feasibility, regional sustainability, and adoption readiness is proposed to support evidence-based selection of natural dye systems under different regional conditions. This review identifies key research gaps, highlights priorities for standardization and industrial validation, and provides a comprehensive foundation for advancing sustainable dyeing through natural dyes.