A Semiotic and Geometric Structure Synthesis of Traditional Kelantan Songket: A Critical Review on Digital Heritage Safeguarding

Abstract

Traditional Kelantan songket is more than just a handcrafted textile; it serves as a vibrant visual expression that embodies the socio-cultural values and semiotic identity of the Malay community. For centuries, skilled weavers have woven ecological insights, spiritual beliefs, and community standards of conduct into carefully designed textile patterns. However, modern academic discussions frequently fail to assess songket merely as a fixed material craft, thus neglecting the structural semiotic processes that shape meaning-making within the fabric. This critical analysis explores the convergence of textile design geometry and semiotic theory through a dual-layer model of signification comprising external physical denotation and internal connotative meaning, which are then applied to songket ornamentation, with a particular focus on deconstructing nearly extinct organic motifs such as the Ketam Guri. A comprehensive review of the literature shows that this heritage sector is facing a twofold crisis. On one side, a fear of the overlooked pattern arises from the inability to record the implicit knowledge of expert weavers in computational systems, which causes unnoticed cultural loss alongside the effects of a surge in inexpensive imported prints. Conversely, the escalation of global Generative AI technology has been noted to lead to significant semiotic breaches; as these algorithms do not possess the metadata required for genuine design principles, they generate visual anomalies that are fundamentally flawed. This review suggests a human-AI collaboration framework using a human-in-the-loop method to create a cohort of contemporary hybrid artisans capable of applying deep-rooted learning to secure traditional design principles digitally.